CHICAGO OPEN-AIR RESTAURANTS CAN BE FUN FOR ANYONE

Some menu items go through like transcripts from a fever desire, nevertheless turn out unexpectedly fantastic — Bavarian cream doughnuts draped with sea urchin, a mocktail of gochujang and coconut milk with black sesame rimmed around the glass. But the cafe’s mastery of your hearth is exactly what regularly wows; the dry-aged rib-eye with home-